Friday, 15 May 2015

PC Screen Resolution changes on Boot Up...Fix through Registry Edit.......regedit.exe


Step #1:
Open your start menu and in the search bar type in regedit and hit enter. UAC will pop-up asking if you would like to allow this program to make changes to the computer, just hit Yes.

Step #2:
In the left pane of regedit you will see a list of registry keys;
- Click the little white arrow beside HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG to expand this key.
- Expand System > CurrentControlSet > Control > VIDEO

Step #3:
Now you should see one or mroe keys with random numbers and letters, for example my video key is {F92BFB9B-59E9-4B65-8AA3-D004C26BA193}.

If you expand these keys you will see another key in each of these named 0000.

Simply click on these 0000 keys to see their values, you are looking for the one that has multiple values in it, for example Attach.RelativeX, Attach.RelativeY, etc.

The proper 0000 key should also have a child key (which is your monitor's registry settings, yay!), mine is named Mon12345678 but yours may be different.

Step #4:
Now for the registry changes, since 0000 and the Mon12345678 keys have the same settings and values, I changed both of them to be identical. I'm not entirely sure which one windows 7 uses, but it doesn't hurt to change them both just to be sure.

In order to change a registry key's values;
- right click on the Name of the value and select Modify...
- where it says Base select the Decimal option
- input the new numerical value you wish to enter in the Value data: text field

The settings to change are;
Attach.RelativeX - this is your screens X resolution, mine is set to 1360
Attach.RelativeY - this is your screens Y resolution, mine is set to 768
DefaultSettings.XResolution - this is your screens default X resolution, mine is set to 1360
DefaultSettings.YResolution - this is your screens default Y resolution, mine is set to 768

Step #5:
You are done! Simply click File>Exit and your registry settings will automatically be saved.
*Note* A system reboot may be required before these settings take effect.

Monday, 16 February 2015

Mobile Phone Signal Strength and SIM

I have read in a number of Forums that a poor signal has not got anything to do with a SIM card.
I have two identical Nokia phones and two SIM cards on identical PAYG plans.
One phone kept giving no Network Coverage the other had at least 40% signal strength.
Swapping the SIM and the fault was on the other phone.
This identifies that the phones are OK and the SIM is responsible.
Cleaning the SIM card contacts made no difference and packing with a thin card to give better contact made no difference.
Putting in a new SIM card  worked and both phones have the same signal strength which is not very good anyway where I live.
I do not understand the pedantic responses on forums saying that the SIM card is not responsible for signal strength when it clearly can be along with numerous other reasons.


Tags.  SIM, SIMM, mobile phone, signal, weak, strength.

Sunday, 1 February 2015

How to find that missing App that you know you have on your iPad

How to Search for an app on IOS 8 

First go to settings and then General then Spotlight Search
Make sure Applications is ticked

With the newest OS go to the search screen and search for - (minus sign).  Or hyphen on touchpad but most characters will work on the .?123 button


If Applications is unticked the same action above will instead show your Music  Tracks instead.

Once you have a list of your apps the folder will be named on the right hand side if you have created a folder.
Tapping on an App will open it of course.

Tuesday, 26 August 2014

iPad tricks

Take a screenshot
If you need a screenshot, whether it's to prove your high score in a new game or to send an important chart to the office, taking one is quick and easy. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time. The screenshot will be added to your camera roll.
 

 Tap titlebar to return to top
Scrolling all the way up to the top of a long page can be irritating. That's why Apple included a shortcut: just tap on the title bar at the top of the screen to automatically jump to the top. This should work across most apps,
 

 Fast app switching
If you have followed the tips above then you will have seen this by now. Switching apps quickly is very easy. It's not necessary to close one app and then scroll through your apps to find the one you want. Just open the iPad's multitasking menu by swiping upwards with four fingers or double-tapping the home button. You'll see all of your recently opened apps. Scroll right and you'll see even more. Just tap the one you want to switch quickly. This is especially useful if you want to copy-and-paste between one app and another. Swipe one up to quite it.

 Copy/Paste
This is a tremendously useful feature. If you need to copy text between, say, a document and an email, just tap and hold on the text you want to copy. The word you have tapped will be highlighted and you'll see a bar with a blue circle on it at each end of the word. Drag these bars to select the text you want and then tap 'copy'. Then go to the app you want to paste the text into, tap and hold and then hit 'paste'.

 Zoom

Want to see something close up, then this feature might be for you.
This feature sits in the accessibility folder under general settings. when turned on, double tap on the screen with three fingers to zoom into a spot.
To navigate around while zoomed in, drag three fingers around the screen.
And if things still are not magnified enough, then double tap again while zoomed in with three fingers before dragging them up or down. This will zoom you right in and out of the action.

 Shake to undo
Made a mistake when typing and wish there was a handy undo button just like on your desktop word processor. Actually there is, but you have to get physical.
Simply pick up your iPad, hold it tightly and give it a rigorous shake. A box will flash up on the screen asking if you would like to undo the typing you have just inputted.

Double click the home button
Double click of the home button will bring up the multitasking bar, allowing you to access apps that are open, place a finger on them and the Apps will jiggle. Press the small x to close down an app in the bottom bar.

Reboot
Hold down the Sleep/wake Button and the Home Button  for about 15 seconds or until the screen goes black and the Apple logo appears. Wait a while and slide to switch on. all open Apps which are slowing down your system will be closed.

Tuesday, 19 August 2014

HP X360 removing the base enclosure

Removing the base enclosure

WARNING:Make sure the computer is disconnected from power before starting.
Follow the steps in this section to remove the base enclosure.
Step 1

Remove the two rubber feet from the rear corners of the base enclosure.
Removing the rubber feet
Step 2

Remove four screws that secure the base enclosure to the top cover.

NOTE:The four screws in this step and the seven screws in the next step are different sizes. Take care to keep them separate for reinstallation.
Four screws locations
Step 3

Remove seven more screws that secure the base enclosure to the top cover.
Seven screw locations
Step 4

Starting with the edge of the base enclosure near the power button, carefully release the retention clips on the outer edges of the base enclosure from the top cover.
Releasing the retention clips
Step 5

Lift the base enclosure off the computer by prying it up and lifting...
Lifting and removing the base enclosure
...taking care to flex the base enclosure as necessary to remove the enclosure from over the HDMI connector.HDMI connector in the base enclosure
Step 6

Lift the base enclosure until you have access to the ribbon cable and its connector.
Base enclosure lifted to access ribbon cable and its connector
Step 7

Carefully lift up the locking bar on the connector.

CAUTION:Use care to prevent damaging the connector and ribbon cable.
Lifting the locking bar on the connector
Step 8

Remove the cable from the connector, and lift off the base enclosure.
Disconnecting the cable

Replacing the base enclosure

Use the steps in this section to replace the base enclosure.
Step 1

If installing a new base enclosure, remove the USB board from the inside of the old enclosure and install it on the inside of the new base enclosure.
USB board on the inside of the base enclosure
Step 2

Place the base enclosure over the computer so that the USB cable can be reconnected.
Holding the base enclosure open to access the ribbon cable and connector
Step 3

Insert the ribbon cable in the connector and push down on the locking bar to secure it.
Reconnecting the cable
Step 4

Replace the base enclosure ensuring that the HDMI connector fits in its intended opening on the side of the base enclosure...
HDMI connector in the base enclosure
...and lower the base enclosure onto the computer.Lowering the base enclosure into place
Step 5

Press down on the edges of the enclosure to snap it into place.
Snapping the cover into place
Step 6

Replace seven screws that secure the base enclosure.
The seven screw locations
Step 7

Replace the other four screws that finish securing the base enclosure to the computer.
The four screw locations
Step 8

Replace the two rubber feet.

Tuesday, 12 August 2014

Western Digital , Blue, Green, Black or Red what is the difference ?

Nothing beats a SSD Drive for performance but mechanical drives by Western Digital are much cheaper.

WD Blue
These are your baseline drives; typical power consumption, solid performance, good price. If none of the specific features of the other types stand out then these are the ones you want, they're ideal as capacity drives for a desktop for example.

WD Green
These are all about saving energy; they're not actually all that slow in practice for things like streaming, but for more random read/write they lag behind a bit, again not by all that much. The main benefit is that they save power and wear by spinning down when they can, this means they're basically best for things like backup drives which are only in use periodically (e.g - once an hour), if they're made to spin up too often then you obliterate any potential savings you could make, at which point you've got a slightly slower Blue.

WD Black
These are pure performance drives, all about speed. Their top speed for streaming isn't that much further ahead than a blue drive, but the main difference comes from it being generally more responsive. Basically if all you want is speed, but you can't afford an SSD with the capacity you need, then WD Blacks are for you. A good value gaming system can do well with an affordable SSD for OS and a few other bits and pieces you can fit, with a WD Black as your main drive for your games, for example by moving your Steam folder onto it, giving you good all round performance and capacity.
They also now have generous warranties (5 years), they're basically WD Red+, if you can take advantage of the extra performance that is.

WD Red
I think of these as a hybrid between Greens and Blacks; their power consumption is really good, but unlike the Green which is designed to save power between uses, the Reds are designed to just spin constantly for continual use/availability. They're quiet, responsive, and have good speeds, but most importantly they have an extended (3 year) warranty.
You could use them as system drives and they'd perform just fine, but you probably wouldn't be getting the most of their cost; they're ideal for often used NAS devices, I also like them for RAID setups, particular RAID-5 and RAID-6 since a bunch of them doesn't use tons of power, but they're responsive enough to handle the distributed blocks of data, parity writes etc.


So to summarise:
WD Black = Speed/high end use, extended warranty.
WD Blue = General use.
WD Green = Energy saving for backups or other less frequent use.
WD Red = Some energy saving, continual use, extended warranty, ideal for RAID.

Thursday, 24 July 2014

BSOD Unexpected Kernel Mode Trap and Mcafee Total Protection 2014

I have been suffering a crash and immediate reboot losing current data with  A BSOD (Blue Screen of Death)  0 x 1000007F Unexpected Kernel Mode Trap and the suggestion from forums what to do .
I checked the graphics card, RAM, hard drives using the Dell hardware utility stress tests.
All drivers were up to date.
I had restored my PC back from available Windows updates but no change.

A utility for explaining a  BSOD (Blue Screen of Death)  0 x 1000007F Unexpected Kernel Mode Trap showed that  a mfehidk.sys was recorded in the log which is a McAfee Total Protection 2014 .This  file is a link driver and leads me to believe that the BSOD which occurs when I try to drag and drop files or move up to the root directory was probably caused by the McAfee anti virus product.
Disabling the McAfee functions seemed to cure the problem immediately
Contacted their technical support who did seem to be familiar withy this problem. They found that Microsoft Security Essentials was also running which is not a good idea having two AV software running.
They then checked the Network Driver for updates which was found to be up to date.
Running the McAfee virtual technician showed no problems.
It was however suggested that a complete removal and reinstall would be necessary and offered to do this remotely for me.
The Remote assistance removed all McAfee products using mcpr.exe and rebooted.
They set up a reinstallation link on the desktop and serial number and asked me to reinstall and see if the error reoccurs.
July 2014 everything has been OK.
To  clean and re-install Mcafee Total Protection 2014  I have detailed a home use procedure below.



Mcafee removal tool download

Uninstall your McAfee home user products using Add/Remove Programs in the Windows Control Panel: 

Windows 8 Users
Close all McAfee program windows.
In the Start screen, type Programs and Features. (If it is not visible, click Settings in the list on the right.)
Click Programs and Features in the list on the left.
Select McAfee SecurityCenter.
Click Uninstall and follow any on-screen prompts.


Windows 7 and Vista users
Close all McAfee program windows.
Click Start, Search, type Programs and Features, and click Go.
Double-click Programs and Features.
Select McAfee SecurityCenter.
Click Uninstall and follow any on-screen prompts. 


Download and run the McAfee Consumer Product Removal (MCPR) tool:
Download the MCPR tool from: http://download.mcafee.com/products/licensed/cust_support_patches/MCPR.exe and save it to a folder on your computer.

IMPORTANT: The MCPR tool is updated periodically when new products and updates are released. Always download a new copy of the MCPR tool before using it to uninstall your product.

Navigate to the folder where you saved the file, and double-click MCPR.exe. 
When you see the User Account Control dialog box, click Yes.
At the McAfee Software Removal screen, click Next.
At the End User License Agreement (EULA) dialog box, click Next to accept the agreement.
When prompted, type the Captcha information, which is case sensitive, to validate to application security, and then click Next.
If you have Family Protection installed, type your Administrator user name and password and click Next.
If you cannot authenticate, follow the on-screen instructions to obtain an uninstall code. If you do not have Family Protection installed, you will not receive this authentication prompt.
When you see the message CleanUp Successful, restart your computer. Your McAfee product will not be fully removed until after the restart.